With the invitation to the Antipodium A/W12 show featuring Chris Dorley-Brown’s photograph Welshpool House it was an indication that, similarly to their SS12 show, designer Geoffrey Finch was once again drawing inspiration from his immediate East London surroundings. Charmingly titled Vermin "the collection is a celebration and exploration of East London’s culture and history, inspired by modern architecture and the Olympic stadium as well as pigeons, East End old ladies and tower blocks. It’s a real mix of highs and lows".
The Anglo-Australian label still has the ability to view the idiosyncrasies of the local culture as an outsider but is also entrenched in London’s most creative scene, consequently it has become one of the true progressive young London labels. Always witty with a tongue-in-cheek approach, Vermin shows a preoccupation with the grimy underside of East London as the clothes took names from local Clapton streets, and a reoccurring print throughout was of the classic map from television show East Enders, abstracted then applied to peplum shirt dresses and silk blouses.
It was one of the stand-out shows of the day, as the collection was an appropriate mix of sportswear with more formal options and featured garments that could actually be worn in the English winter climate. It’s unbelievably hard to make a raincoat into a covetable item but now I know where I’ll be heading to get mine next winter.
Inspiration board for the AW12 collection
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